Edible Window Boxes

Window box gardens are an easy way for beginners to get started with gardening. They can offer easy maintenance right from a kitchen window. They are simple to maintain and much less work than preparing an entire backyard garden area. For more advanced gardeners they can become auxiliary specialty gardens.

Even starting them in the Fall you can produce a cornucopia of herbs and vegetables. Broccoli is a productive plant, and turnips will mature quickly. Dwarf variety tomato plants can be more of a pain, but may alternately be productive plants. Lettuces and salad greens, combined with herbs, such as compact basil, chives and oregano make for a beautiful edible display.

When considering a window box garden consider the following:

• Pair plants with similar cultural needs (i.e., watering needs, sun/shade preferences, etc.)
• One key to success is not putting too many plants in one box
• Consider plant heights and growth habits, such as spreading, upright and trailing
• For best growth, set box in an east or west-facing window outdoors, or a south-facing window indoors
  

Kick Blossom-End Rot's Ass!

Blossom-end rot is physiological condition caused by calcium deficiency in the blossom end of the fruit. It occurs most notably in tomatoes, but also occurs in peppers, squash, watermelon and any other fruiting vegetable. It is characterized by the decay of fruits at their blossom end; appearing as a dry brown spot about the size of a dime, that may blacken and sink in as it grows to about the size of a half dollar. This disorder is most severe following extremes of over or under-watering.

There are steps that can be taken to greatly reduce this condition:

1. Lime soils to a pH of 6.5 to 6.7 before planting. Gardens not limed within the past 2-3 years will need 2 cups of lime per plant. The lime should be worked in to a depth of 12 inches.
2. Fertilize properly. Applying too much fertilizer at a time can result in blossom-end rot. Following soil test recommendations is the best way to ensure proper fertilization. Terracycle makes a Tomato Plant Food based in worm poop that has a calcium boost. I have found it to be very effective.
   
3. Mulch plants. Use straw, pine straw, decomposed sawdust, plastic or newspapers. Mulches conserve moisture and reduces blossom-end rot.
4. Water when necessary. Tomato plants need 1-1.5 inches of water per week during fruiting. Extreme fluctuations in soil moisture can increase blossom-end rot.
5. Spray calcium. Plants may be sprayed with a calcium solution at the rate of 4 level Tbs of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride per gallon of water. The spray should be applied 2-3 times per week, beginning when the second fruit clusters bloom. Several foliar sprays containing calcium are available and all work well for tomatoes. Calcium chloride is only suggested for tomatoes.
6. Quick fixes. Foliar application of a weak Epsom Salt (magnesium) solution can effect calcium uptake. Other suggestions include powdered milk, crushed egg shell tea, bone meal tea, Tums tablets, etc., but prevention is the key. Removing affected fruit is also recommended to reduce stress on the plant. "Gardens Alive" sells a product called Rot-StopT Spray that can be applied to plants weekly to supplement calcium reserves and prevent rotting.

Now let's go and kick some ass!

Little Green Tomatoes

All four of my tomato varieties have sprouted a plethera of small green orbs. I am more than pleased --- I'm almost proud. Now comes the wait for them to grow bigger and more colorful. I just hope that the birds and squirrels decide that there are tastier pickings out there.

Wish them luck!

The Plants Are Teasing Me!

Right now, my tomato plants are bursting with blooms and new growth --- but still no tomatoes! I realize that patience is a virtue, but I can hardly wait! The thought of my first home grown tomatoes since 2005 provokes tantilizing images of fresh salads topped with savory fruits.

I have four varieties growing currently: Black Cherry, Window Box Roma, Micro Tom and Basket Boy Red.

If you listen very carefully, you can hear the plants laughing at my impatience...

Attack of the Killer Tomato!

Over the past few weeks, this Black Cherry tomato plant has gone from taking up only half of its cage to bursting out of it. At this point the cage can barely contain this beast! I've watched this plant grow on a daily basis. Every day its height and girth increased. Above is a before and after photo spliced together. I could barely get this crazy plant in frame.

Experiment: Sweet Potatoes in Containers

The experiment has officially begun! I have read nothing on growing sweet potatoes in containers. So, aside from what I know about growing them in general --- I'm on my own.

Sweet potatoes are grown from the "slips" or sprouts that appear after you've held onto them too long. I had a few potatoes from the winter, that had taken on lives of their own. Pre-sprouted, even. I also stuck a couple in jars, submerging the ends in water, held in place by toothpicks. Sounds a lot like the low-tech science experiments done in grade school, doesn't it?

When the slips are about 8" long, they are ready to be removed, with a twisting motion and planted. Another shortcut I have taken is to stick the slips in an organic potting medium, so that they can develop a good root system.

Apparently, sweet potatoes do well in a slightly acidic, loamy, sandy soil that is rich in organic matter. Too much nitrogen with produce rampant vines and distorted tubers. A cupful of organic liquid fertilizer per plant, rich in phosphorus will get them off to a good start. One specifically for transplanting should do the trick.

The sweet potato slips have to be kept well-watered to keep them from withering. Sweet potato plants need at least 1" of water per week. Then the amount of water can be decreased as maturity approaches, in order to keep the tubers from cracking.

Did You Plant Marigolds in Your Garden this Year?

They are exceptionally easy to grow, and they keep away aphids, thripes, Mexican Bean beetles, squash bugs, tomato hornworms and whiteflies.

Marigolds also repel harmful root node nematodes (soil-dwelling microscopic white worms) that attack tomatoes, potatoes, roses and strawberries. The root of the Marigold excretes a chemical that is toxic to nematodes, and kills them as they enter the soil.

Marigolds will bloom well into November. These flowers make charming and beneficial garden companion plants for many different types of herbs and vegetables: including beans, basil, cabbage, cucumber and tomatoes.